The Betula Jacket Knitting Pattern

The Betula Jacket is a variation on the Shorelines Shawl Collar Cardigan pattern and I'd say it's an improved version. My daughter liked it so much, it now belongs to her. 

This one is knitted in World of Wool Chunky Superwash Merino and Silk which I scoured and dyed with silver birch tree bark. The yarn is quite heavy and drapey and the knitted fabric actually increases in size after washing. Maybe not for the purist, but good news for my daughter, superwash yarn does have the great advantage of making knitwear less likely to be accidentally shrunk in the wash.

Materials
300m chunky yarn in Contrast Colour (CC)
600m chunky yarn in Main Colour (MC) - my MC is actually 200m of three shades of pink knit in stripes
4.5mm and 5.5mm circular needle with long cord
Pair of 5.5mm straight needles
4 Stitch Markers
4.5mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle for sewing in ends
35cm open ended heavy duty zip
Sewing needle and thread and 40cm x 20cm fabric for facing zip if desired.

Tension after washing - 10 cm squared = 14.5 stitches and 18 rows 

Size
Finished jacket has a bust measurement of 108cm and a hip measurement of 98cm (with ribbing intended to stretch to fit).
In the photos, it is worn as a loose jacket by my daughter who is size 10, though it was actually made to fit me, size 16, with 100cm hip and 105cm bust measurements.

Abbreviations
CC = contrast colour
k = knit

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

M1L = make 1 stitch angled left

M1R = make 1 stitch angled right

MC = main colour

p = purl

PM = place marker

RS = right side

ssk = slip 1 st as if to k, slip the next st as if to p, slide the left needle through the front loops of the two slipped stitches and k together 

SM slip marker

st = stitch

w&t = wrap yarn around needle and turn to work back in the other direction

WS = wrong side

yo = wrap yarn over needle before working next stitch

Pocket linings (make two)

Using 5.5 mm straight needles and MC, cast on 22 stitches and knit 4 rows of stocking stitch, then break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing up the pocket later. Keep both pocket linings on a straight needle.

Body
Using 4.5mm circular needle and CC, cast on 133 st (I used a twisted longtail cast on method)

(WS) Edging Row One   
P1, *P1, K1* repeat from * to * to last two st, P2

(RS) Edging Row Two   
K1, *K1, P1* repeat from * to * to last two st, K2

Work this pattern for 13 rows to make ribbed edging, ending on a WS row.

Change to 5.5mm needle and MC (if you are making stripes, change colour every two rows, carrying yarn up alongside fabric edge).
Row 1 k
Row 2 p

Row 3 k 27, pm, M1L, k 25, pm, M1R, k 25, M1L, pm, k25, M1R, pm, k27 (137)

Row 4 p
Row 5 k
Row 6 p

Make pocket fronts:

Row 7 k 23 and turn, leaving the other stitches still on the circular cord - you will now be knitting only these 23 stitches to create the front of the right pocket.
Row 8 p back to edge
Row 9 k 21, k2tog (22 stitches)
Row 10 p back to edge

The sloping opening of the right pocket is created by repeating rows 9 and 10 another 10 times. Slip the remaining 13 stitches onto a holder.

Using a straight needle, slip 23 stitches off the other end of the circular cord. Attach yarn at the edge which will become the pocket opening to knit the front of the left pocket.
Row 7 k
Row 8 p
Row 9 ssk, k to end (22 stitches)
Row 10 p
Repeat rows 9 and 10 another ten times. Break yarn and leave the remaining 13 stitches on a holder.

Making more of the body and completing the pockets:
Row 7 Using the needle at the opposite end of the circular cord to the right pocket and starting from the far edge of one pocket lining, with its RS facing, knit across the 22 stitches of the pocket lining from the straight needle, then knit across the stitches on the circular cord, slipping the markers as you reach them, to the junction with the left pocket front. Take the straight needle with the remaining pocket lining and knit across these 22 stitches to finish the row.
Row 8 p (135 st)

Row 9 k to marker, M1L, k to marker, M1R, k to one st before marker M1L and slip marker, k to one st before marker MRL and slip marker, k to end (139 st)
Row 10 p
Continue working in stocking stitch for another 6 rows.

Row 17 k to marker, M1L, (k to marker, slip marker) repeat, k to one st before marker, M1R, and slip marker, k to end (141 st)

Row 18 p removing markers.
Continue working in stocking stitch for another 4 rows

Once the work across the pocket linings and the main body reaches the same height as the pocket fronts (a total of 22 rows stocking stitch), slip the stitches from the pocket tops off the holders and onto two separate straight needles.

Start the next row by knitting 1 st from the right pocket front, then for the next 12 stitches, holding the pocket top in front, knit together one st from the right pocket top with one st from the main piece. Knit across the work to 12 stitches from the end, knit together one st from the left pocket top in front of one st from the main piece and finish by knitting the last stitch from the left pocket front (143 st)

Continue working in stocking stitch until the work measures 32cm in total finishing on a WS row

Sleeves (make two)

Using 4.5mm needle and CC, cast on 33 st (I used a twisted longtail cast on)

(WS) Cuff Row One   P1, *P1, K1* repeat to last two st, P2

(RS) Cuff Row Two    K1, *K1, P1* repeat to last two st, K2

Work this pattern for 9 rows to make ribbed cuff, ending on a WS row.

Change to 5.5mm needle and work in stocking stitch for 2 rows, change to MC and work another 8 rows, ending on a WS row. (If you are making stripes, change colour every two rows, carrying yarn up alongside fabric edge.)

Sleeve Increase Row   K1, M1L, K to last 2 st, M1R, K1

Work this increase row on the eleventh row and every following eighth row until you have 49 stitches on the needle. Continue working in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 41cm. Place first two stitches and last two stitches on safety pins, cut yarn allowing an end for weaving in and leave remaining 45 st on needle.

Yoke

Starting with a RS row on 5.5mm needles in MC, k 34 across body, place 4 st on a safety pin and PM. K 45 across one sleeve and PM. K 67 across body, place 4 st on a safety pin and PM. K 45 across the other sleeve and PM. K 34 to the end of the body. (225st)

Purl back across all st, slipping markers.

Decrease Row for Neck and Yoke

K1, K2tog (neck decrease) *K to 3st before marker ssk, k1, SM, k2tog, K to 2 st before marker, ssk, SM, K1, K2tog* repeat from * to *, K to 3st before end, ssk (neck decrease), K1

Purl back across all st, slipping markers.

Repeat these two rows 9 times in total (135st)

Decrease Row for Yoke only

*K to 3st before marker ssk, k1, SM, k2tog, K to 2 st before marker, ssk, SM, K1, K2tog* repeat from * to *, K to end

Purl back across all st, slipping markers.

Repeat these two rows 12 times in total (39st)

Final decrease row

K1, ssk, K1, remove marker, K2tog, K1, SM, K1, K2tog, K19, ssk, K1, remove marker, K1, ssk, remove marker, K1, K2tog, K1 (33st)

Purl back across all st, slipping 1 remaining marker and leave 33 st on needle.

Front Edge and Collar

Using 4.5mm needle and CC, with RS facing, starting at the bottom of the right front edge and working through the spaces between the first and second columns of stitches, pick up one st through the first four row interspaces, miss a space, continue picking up 4 st from every 5 rows up the front, along the neck angle and up the straight edge of the neck, knit the first 5 live st from the needle, SM, K 28, pick up 4 st from every 5 rows of the straight edge of the neck, from the angled edge of the neck and from the left front edge.

First Row (WS) P1, *K1, P1* repeat from * to * until you reach the marker. Remove marker. If you just made a purl stitch, w&t now, if you just made a knit stitch, P1, w&t.

Second Row (RS) *K1, P1* repeat from * to * for 24 st, w&t

Short Rows for Collar

Working in the established rib pattern, when you reach the wrapped yarn, knit it together with the next stitch, P1, w&t. Repeat this for 40 short rows, at which stage the collar will cover the entire slope of the neck line.

Next Row

Working in the established rib pattern, when you reach the wrapped yarn, knit it together with the next stitch, then continue P1, K1 rib to the end of the row at the bottom of the right front.

Next Row

Working in the established rib pattern, when you reach the wrapped yarn, knit it together with the next stitch, then continue P1, K1 rib to the end of the row at the bottom of the left front.

Work in rib for 9 full length rows

Either, cast off in rib and bend the width of the straight edge of the front border in half, sewing the cast off edge to the front of the work on both sides, 
Or use the working end of the yarn and a crochet hook to fix each live stitch of the straight edges of the front border into the stitches of row one of the border, 
Cast off all the collar stitches loosely to allow it to fan out.

Pocket Edging

With right side facing, pick up 20 stitches evenly across opening of pocket.
Knit one row
Cast off knitwise and sew down edges.
Repeat on the other pocket.

Finishing

Using Kitchener Stitch, graft together  the four safety pinned stitches from the sleeve with the four stitches from the body at each underarm. Sew up the sleeve seams and sew in the pocket linings. Weave in all loose ends. Wash and block then set the zip in to the WS of the straight edges of the border, completing the job with fabric facings.

Note to Self - I do want one of these jackets - the fabric would be fuller and bouncier knitted in a yarn woolen spun from a Down type sheep fleece and the collar could be fab made in a mad art yarn, possibly even with tail spun locks.