Thursday, 13 September 2018

Dyeing with Iron Dipped Leaves Steamed in a Bundle

Last week, I wrote about using half the leg of a pair of linen trousers in a trial run at printing leaves in a bundle with an iron blanket. This week, you will learn the fate of the other half a leg. The linen had been mordanted with aluminium acetate and was soaked, squeezed out and smoothed over a layer of baking parchment ready for its test. I have used leaves dipped in iron in plenty of dye bundles before now. The thing I wanted to look at was the effect of steaming the bundle, rather than using my usual process of simmering bundles in a plant dye bath. All the leaves were dipped in a weak solution of iron before being laid out.
Untied after being steamed for two hours and left to cool, it was pleasing to see dark iron prints from the underside of the oak leaves and no surprise to find the oak leaves laid face down had left little trace. Interesting to see that halo around the outside of the sycamore leaves, though. That doesn't happen with iron dipped leaves.

The whole piece looked quite exciting while wet, but on reflection, I realised much had been added to this appearance by both iron and yellow chamomile dye, seeping up through the greaseproof paper from the iron blanket trial piece, which had been rolled underneath it and steamed in the same bundle. Once I had realised the limitations of a greaseproof paper barrier, I had much more success using cling film with iron blanket bundles. It seemed well worth using a cling film barrier to have another look a steaming leaves dipped in iron.


I laid out leaves on a silk satin scarf, mordanted with alum. The linen results had at least suggested that lycestra, purple smoke bush and maple leaves could print their own dye as well as an iron outline. I dotted on a few Dyers Chamomile and coreopsis flowers to add a bit more colour, just in case. The scarf was rolled up together with its layer of clingfilm, tied with string and steamed for a couple of hours.





The leaf colours did show up much better this time. Quite a thrill, especially that purple/blue from the smokebush leaves, but the edges of many of the prints were blurred, as if stretched downwards. After washing and ironing, it was clearer that the stretching effect was worse in some parts of the scarf than others. I reckoned the fabric must have been too wet, allowing the plants' dyes to run. Which is an odd thought for someone who usually completely immerses dye plant contact prints in a dye bath. Steaming is a whole new ball game for me, worth pursuing because I do like the cleaner look and clearer background, though using clingfilm irks my conscience.
My next attempt was on two more alum mordanted silk scarves, this time wringing them out firmly after soaking to reduce the amount of water sealed under the clingfilm during steaming. It worked, there was little or no bleeding of dye around the edge of each leaf or flower. Oddly enough, though clingfilm prevented iron from seeping through the layers, a little of the intense dye from the coreopsis had got through, making paler dots on the silk rolled in the layer above and below each flower. Dye molecules must be smaller than iron and clingfilm must be a semipermeable membrane. I am going to find some reusable plastic sheets for future tests, maybe thicker plastic will confine the plant dyes more completely.
My companion, Elinor Gotland, realised I was ironing silk and trotted over.
"Fair play, Beaut, those scarves are classy. Not like your usual jumble of colours at all."
"Mmm. Haven't I been restrained, just using one kind of leaf and one kind of flower?" 
She just looked me up and down and sighed.
"To be honest, there's not much point me explaining the aesthetics of elegance to a woman wearing her husband's old clothes."
"It's my Bohemian look. Arts and crafts vibe."
"Hoobydouche. If you were an artist, you'd understand about negative space." 
Elinor shook out the first scarf with those bleeding edges on the prints. I waited for some sharp rebuke for wasting good silk, but she scooped it up in delight. 
"OMG, I'm having this one. It's practically Salvador Dali."

6 comments:

  1. great results! and I agree with your silk loving companion, I really like those slightly warped prints, too! and - I learned a lovely new word today: Hoobydouche:) sounds so much classier than poppycock:)

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    1. Got to love the latest slang - lucky for me I have a teenage nephew :)

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  2. Thank you so much for explaining your trials and your processes. I too have a real problem with using clingfilm but have seen that the results seem to suggest it does help make the prints work better. I am now coming round to the fact that alum mordanted fabric and leaves are the way to get better print results. I did try using iron mordanted and vinegar mordanted fabric and leaves with mixed results. Once again thanks for letting us all know about your process. Carol

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    1. You are very welcome. I do share your feelings, wanting to keep the whole process within what I can grow and safely dispose of. Sweating over the small stuff can get very vexed, really I ought to sell the car and offset everything else against the petrol I don't burn - but I'm not going to do that. I'll just turn down the heating and tell the kids to put on jumpers ... funny how even the vegetarian one objects to that :)

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    2. Greetings,

      I see that you haven't posted in a while, so do not know if you still attend to this blog. However, instead of using thin, fragile plastic wrap, why not try the much thicker vinyl that they sell in upholstery shops for (ugly) table coverings and (ugly) vinyl upholstery? The manufacture of this stuff is still problematic, but it will last for years of re-use. I do not know if the chemical properties will effect the dying process differently than with plastic wrap - if you are interested, I leave that research to you. All the best.

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  3. Greetings,
    If washing these scarves to use as clothing is problematic, can you market them as framed art works? They are incredibly beautiful right out of the dye bath that it would be a shame not to share them. There is art glass that you can use that protects artworks by filtering ultraviolet light and there are tannin and lignin-free products that you can purchase through businesses that specialize in conservationist items for libraries, artwork, and the like.

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